Mulvaney's B&L

Beyond Patrick Mulvaney's baggy attire and shambling demeanor beats the heart of a chef who fully gets the precision of technique and the grace of art.

Diners got glimpses of Mulvaney's potential when he worked other people's restaurants, but since opening his own place in spring 2006, Mulvaney's Building & Loan, he's become widely recognized as one of Sacramento's more original and admired chefs, even if he doesn't seem to spend a whole lot of time in the kitchen, his soiled chef's jacket notwithstanding.

Mulvaney likes to roam about dining room and patio, bringing diners vibrant lagniappes such as a thimble of bisque sweetened with Brentwood corn, spring garlic and fennel, or a Chinese soup spoonful of a refreshingly tangy blend of Persian cucumber, mint, lime and gin.